10.27.06

Boneless Leg of Lamb Stuffed with Swiss Chard and Feta

Posted in Dinner, Lamb, Meats at 10:40 am by julie

I’ve had some problems with lamb. It is mostly because I like my meat at least medium well done—bloody, squishy meat is just not for me—and lamb cooked to that degree is frequently rubbery, flavorless and gray. Jeremy is a huge fan of lamb though. It’s possibly his very favorite meat, so I have been valiantly trying to strike a balance between bloody and rubbery in my lamb roasts. Never had much luck until I found a recipe for a boneless rolled leg of lamb.

For instance, I recently made a bone-in leg of lamb with garlic and anchovy, and while it was tasty, the recipe below totally blew it away. We cooked this roast for about 7 minutes after it registered 140F, and let it rest while I made the jus, and it was perfectly done, to my taste: a bit pink, and very tender, but not red or bloody. Not only was it the first time I’ve done lamb justice in the kitchen, it was probably the best-tasting and textured lamb I’ve ever eaten. We served it simply with the jus and a side of quinoa.

Boneless Leg of Lamb Stuffed with Swiss Chard and Feta

1 lb Swiss chard, stems reserved for another use and leaves chopped coarse
6 large garlic cloves, sliced thin lengthwise
3 T olive oil
1/4 lb feta, crumbled (about 3/4 C)
an 8-lb leg of lamb, boned, butterflied, and trimmed well (4-5 lb boneless)
1 1/2 tsp crumbled dried rosemary, or to taste
1 onion, sliced
1 C dry red wine
1 1/2 C beef broth
1/2 C water
1 T cornstarch, dissolved in 2 T cold water

Wash the chard well, drain it, and dump it in a heavy saucepan without drying; steam it over moderate heat, covered, in the water clinging to the leaves, for 3-5 minutes, or until it is wilted. Drain the chard in a colander, refresh under cold water, and really squeeze it dry in a sturdy paper towel. In a skillet, saute the garlic in 2 T oil over moderate heat until pale golden, and transfer it with a slotted spoon to a bowl. To the skillet add the chard, and cook it, stirring, for 1 minute, or until any excess liquid is evaporated, and transfer it to the bowl. Let the chard mixture cool and stir in the crumbled feta.

Pat the lamb dry, arrange it boned side up on a work surface, and season it with salt and pepper. Spread the lamb evenly with the chard mixture, leaving a 1-inch border around the edges. Beginning with a short side, roll it up jelly-roll fashion and tie it tightly with kitchen string. (The rolled and tied roast may look ungainly, but it will improve in appearance when cooked.)

Transfer the lamb to a roasting pan and rub it all over with the remaining 1 T oil, 1 tsp rosemary, and salt and pepper to taste. Roast the lamb in the middle of a preheated 325°F oven for 30 minutes, scatter the onion around it in the pan, and roast the lamb for 1 to 1 1/4 hours more (a total of 20 minutes cooking time for each pound of boneless meat), or until a meat thermometer registers 140°F. for medium-rare meat. Transfer the roast to a cutting board and let stand for 20 minutes while you prepare the sauce.

While the lamb is standing, skim the fat from the pan drippings, and set the roasting pan over moderately high heat. Add the wine, deglaze the pan, scraping up the brown bits, and boil the mixture until it is reduced by half. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a saucepan, add the broth, the remaining 1/2 tsp rosemary, the water, and any juices that have accumulated on the cutting board, and boil the mixture until it is reduced to about 2 C. Stir the cornstarch mixture, add it to the wine mixture, whisking, and simmer the sauce for 2 minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper, and serve drizzled over slices of lamb.

Source: Epicurious

Update 11/15/16: I did a quick shepherd’s pie with some leftovers, and it turned out unbelievably tasty. Definitely something to do again with leftover lamb or beef. I chopped up all the leftover lamb into small pieces, removing the fat as I went, and put it in the bottom of our small casserole; it was enough lamb to cover in a nice layer, not too deep. I then thawed out the remains of the lamb gravy we made with the feta-rolled lamb, which I knew I was saving for a reason, and poured that over the lamb. Next I thawed some peas and corn by running them under hot water in a colander, drained them well, and spread them over the meat. After that went a layer of the last of our buttermilk mashed potatoes, which turned out to be just the right amount, maybe 2 cups. It was cold and consequently rather chunky, but I was able to smooth it out sufficiently. I topped the whole thing off with a very thin layer of breadcrumbs from the freezer, and dotted with a tablespoon of butter. Then it went in the oven for about 30-40 minutes, until the breadcrumbs browned and the gravy was starting to bubble up around the edges of the casserole. We both really liked it, which is good, because we only ate about half, and now have leftovers of leftovers. Plus it was pretty quick to make, and we ate before 7pm, always a bonus.

Update 1/3/07: We made this lamb for Christmas dinner at my parent’s house. My mom was a little worried about not liking the flavor of lamb, but it came out beautifully, and she seemed to like it as well as the rest of us did. The lamb was very fresh and lovely, boned for us in-house at Tony’s, and made quite a spate of leftovers. We served this lamb with jus, mashed potatoes, steamed fresh broccoli, and harvest squash bread from the Macrina cookbook. Oh, and Christmas cookies, of course! We did shepherd’s pie a few days later with the remaining mashed potatoes and gravy, a can of corn, and what seemed like a very small amount of the remaining lamb. I’m told that after we left (without getting to eat any lamb sandwiches, Jeremy would be sad to report), my mom used up the rest in a wonderful lamb stew.

10.01.06

Pizzoccheri

Posted in Cuisines, Dinner, Italian, Pastas, Veggies at 11:09 am by julie

I made this dish on the sly because we had a bag of chard stems in the crisper, and for some reason I thought Jeremy would object to the buckwheat pasta. Must have been because he isn’t quite as enthusiastic about buckwheat in our cinnamon flops as I am.

Anyway, because I didn’t have 3 cups of chard stems, I adjusted the pasta recipe down to 2 eggs, 5/6 C buckwheat flour, 1/3 C AP flour, and 2 tsp each water and milk; the resulting recipe just barely fit into my lovely Le Creuset oval dish. I didn’t peel the red potatoes I used, and the red skin nicely echoed the chard and set off the dark pasta. Actually, it really was a very visually appealing dish; wish I had a photo. I used smoked fontina, because that’s what was available at the store; as it turns out, the smoky flavor combined with the potatoes and buckwheat to make the dish hearty enough that you could imagine there was meat in it.

Counter to my concerns, Jeremy loved this dish so much that he requested an omelet made with the leftovers the next day. Now that I wouldn’t have expected. He tells me it was extremely tasty, though. All in all, this pizzoccheri was totally worth the fussiness of the delicate buckwheat dough, not to mention a good use of chard ribs leftover from another meal.

Pizzoccheri

“Pizzoccheri are short, broad, taupe-colored noodles made principally of soft buckwheat flour. They are a specialty of Valtellina, on the Swiss border, where in cool, Alpine valleys buckwheat grows well. Because buckwheat is so soft, it must be stiffened with some wheat flour, in the proportions given below.

“As you will see when you follow the recipe, the preparation of pizzoccheri has three parts: The pasta is cooked along with potatoes and vegetables, it is then tossed with sage- and garlic-scented butter and topped with sliced, soft cheese, and finally briefly gratineed in the oven.

“The vegetable may be either Savoy cabbage or Swiss chard stalks. My preference is for the Swiss chard…Valtellina’s own tender and savory cheese is not available elsewhere, but an excellent replacement is fontina.”

Homemade pasta dough:
3 large eggs
Approximately 1 1/4 C fine-grained buckwheat flour
1/2 C plus 1 T unbleached flour
1 T water
1/2 tsp salt

3-3.5 C Swiss chard stalks (leafy tops removed), cut into pieces
Salt
1 C potatoes, preferably new or red, sliced 1/4″ thick
4 T (1/2 stick) butter
4 large cloves garlic, lightly mashed with a knife handle and peeled
2 dried or 3 fresh sage leaves
1/4 lb imported Italian fontina cheese, sliced into thin slivers
2/3 C freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Pour the buckwheat flour and the unbleached flour onto a work surface and mix them well. Shape the flour into a mound with a hollow in the center, put the eggs, milk, water, and salt into the hollow, and combine slowly with the flour, working into a kneadable dough.

Knead thoroughly and roll out via machine or by hand, keeping it somewhat thicker than for fettuccine. Let it dry for 2 or more minutes until it is no longer so moist that it will stick to itself when folded, but without letting it get so dry as to crack.

Loosely fold the strips into a loose flat roll as you would for cutting tagiatelle, and cut into 1″-wide ribbons, cutting each in the middle to obtain diamond shaped noodles 1″ wide and 3″ long. Unfold the noodles and spread them on a counter lined with clean, dry cloth towels.

Preheat oven to 400F. Wash the cut-up Swiss chard stalks in cold water. Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil, add 2 T salt, and as soon as the water resumes boiling, put in the chard. When the chard has cooked for 10 minutes, put in the potatoes, setting the lid slightly askew.

While the potatoes and chard cook, put 4 T butter and the garlic in a small skillet and turn to medium heat. Cook until the garlic becomes colored a light nut brown, discard it, and put in the sage. Turn once or twice, then remove the pan from the heat.

Thinly smear the baking dish with butter. When both the chard and potatoes are tender when prodded with a fork, drop the pasta in the same pot. Cook the pasta until slightly underdone, very firm to the bite, molto a dente. If fresh, this will take just a few seconds. Drain immediately with the chard and potatoes, and transfer to the baking dish.

Over the pasta pour the sage and garlic butter, tossing thoroughly to coat the noodles. Add the sliced fontina and grated Parmesan, mixing them into the pasta and vegetables. Level off the contents fo the dish and place on the uppermost rack of the preheated oven. Remove after 5 minutes, allow to settle for another 2-3 minutes, then serve at table directly from the dish.

Source:
Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking.